what: Paper Masala Dosa
where: Bombay Grill, 245 Bush River Rd., 772-5121
There’s something inherently captivating about the moment a plate of food arrives at a table, especially if that plate contains food that is larger than the head(s) that will be consuming it. Pavlov could have studied this reaction. (I would imagine it looks rather like a Tex Avery cartoon from the server’s perspective.) This week’s Bite is a paper masala dosa, served crisp from the griddle and rolled into a foot-and-a-half long cornucopia. Comes with a spiced potato and onion mash; a cool coconut chutney; and a warm bowl of sambar, a lentil and tamarind soup, all served on the side so you can dip and spread as you like. It makes a great first course to share, and since (a) it’s huge, and (b) it’s served as a blank slate, it works as a conduit for sharing second-course sauces as well. — Jonathan Sharpe
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