Columbia Free Times

Fish and Chips at The Kraken

By Jonathan Sharpe
Wednesday, December 4, 2013 |
what: fish & chips
cost: $11
where: The Kraken Gastropub, 2910 Rosewood Dr., Ste. 1, 955-7408

On a particularly chilly Guy Fawkes Night (Nov. 5, 2001), I attended a bonfire on a university campus in London while visiting a friend on an exchange semester. In the true spirit of the holiday, some drunk hooligans started throwing anything they could find onto the bonfire. Sparks were flying everywhere, then fireworks started whizzing low past our heads. (This was not the London School of Economics.) My friend and I, being prudent Americans, ran for the nearest shelter, an open-all-night fish-and-chippery. Thus was born my lifelong love of fish & chips.

When chef David Marlow took over the Kraken’s kitchen back in July, he added his own flair to the menu, such as a steak dish using teres major, a tender but rarely used cut of beef near the shoulder blade. (Chef Trevor Nickel took over the Kraken kitchen from Marlow a few weeks ago.) [Online copy corrected.] But since a good fish & chips is often hard to find around here, I ordered this week’s Bite from the bar menu: two catfish fillets, fried in an herbed tempura batter and served with plenty of fries and a spicy tartar sauce made with pepperoncini and sriracha. Check out the Kraken’s fire sale pricing ($2) on bottles and cans of craft beers and imports on Monday and Wednesdays, and $3 drafts on Tuesdays. Pro tip: These limited quantity selections tend to run out, so it’s a good idea to have a Plan B or Plan C when ordering. Also worth checking out: the bistro-style entrees on the nightly specials menu. — Jonathan Sharpe

Let us know what you think: Email food@free-times.com.

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