COLUMBIA — For the second time in the capital city's history — the second year in a row — three Columbia-area restaurants were named as semifinalists in the 2024 James Beard Foundation Awards.
Dubbed "the Oscars of the food world," the prestigious awards gave nods to three restaurateurs in the Midlands.
The duo behind Kiki's Chicken and Waffles, Kitwanda “Kiki” and Tyrone Cyrus, are nominated in the category of Best Chef: Southeast.
In that same category is West Columbia pit-master Robbie Robinson, the owner and head chef of City Limits Barbeque.
Lula Drake Wine Parlour, which was nominated in a different category last year, was named a semifinalist in the Outstanding Wine and Other Beverages Program category.
"The idea (has always been) 'Can we create a really good product, can we find people who want to eat it and can we make it into a business?'" City Limit's Robinson told Free Times after learning about the nomination. "More than once I've said, 'if it doesn't work, then it doesn't work,' but it looks like maybe it's working."
Last year, Columbia chefs and restaurateurs made history when they were the first in the city's history to be nominated for the awards. The awards, which were established in 1990, highlight culinary talents from across the United States. After the semifinalists are chosen, the awards dwindle to a shorter list of nominees on April 3. Winners will be announced at a June 10 ceremony in Chicago.
In 2023, Spotted Salamander Cafe and Catering's chef Jessica Shillato, the City Grit Hospitality Group team, Sarah Simmons, Aaron Hoskins and Elie Yigo, and Lula Drake Wine Parlour were all named semifinalists. Lula Drake, which is nominated in a beverage category this year, was in the running for Outstanding Hospitality last year.
"We could not be prouder or more excited to have caught and kept the attention of the James Beard Foundation and we are optimistic that this is only the beginning of a long line of nominations and, hopefully, wins still to come,” Bill Ellen, the president and CEO of tourism group Experience Columbia, said in a press release.
City Limits brick-and-mortar open less than a year, but garnering major buzz
Ribs, pickles and pickled red onions from City Limits Q.
Robinson, of City Limits, started his West Columbia barbecue joint as a food truck in 2016. He spent years teaching himself the art of Texas-style meat-smoking, even going so far as to take a smoked sausage course at Texas A&M University. In the summer of 2023, Robinson moved his long nomadic operation into a vacant restaurant space in West Columbia.
With most of his barbecue services taking place during lunchtime on Saturdays and Sundays, Robinson has built a bit of a cult following. Dozens of people line up before 11 a.m. on weekends to get a taste. The newish brick-and-mortar location has an ordering line and a tiny dining room, but that hasn't stopped his restaurant from garnering attention from national food media outlets like Eater and Texas Monthly Magazine.
"I'm excited to see what happens next," Robinson said. "We've definitely worked our tails off trying to get this restaurant up and going, not only over the last nine months or so, but also over the whole eight years from inception."
In northeast Columbia, Kiki's honored for fun soul food
Chef Kitwanda “Kiki” Cyrus cooks in her restaurant, Kiki's Chicken and Waffles.
When Kitwanda “Kiki” and Tyrone Cyrus opened their chicken-and-waffles-centric restaurant in the northeast of Columbia in 2012, it took a while for the following of the soul food classic dish to build in the area.
"The opening was very, very slow,” Kiki told the Post and Courier back in 2019.
But things quickly picked up.
The restaurant got an endorsement from South Carolina women's basketball coach Dawn Staley, who recorded a commercial for the restaurant. Over the last decade, the eatery expanded to a Harbison location and has welcomed prominent Democratic politicians like President Joe Biden, then Vice President, and former U.S. Secretary of State Hillary Clinton.
Both Kiki and Tyrone, along with Robinson, will compete against 19 other chefs from cities like Atlanta and Memphis, Tenn., for a nomination in the Best Chef: Southeast category.
Main Street's Lula Drake scores second consecutive James Beard nod
Lula Drake Wine Parlour. Bee Turner/Provided
Lula Drake, nominated in the Outstanding Wine and Other Beverages Program category, is not a stranger to the James Beard Awards. The intimate wine bar in the heart of Columbia was nominated last year in the category of Outstanding Hospitality and made it from semifinalist to nominee.
Head sommelier Tim Gardner started the wine bar in 2016. At the time, he questioned whether or not Columbia was ready for something like what he hoped to offer. But with unique pours and warm hospitality, the wine bar has an unpretentious approachability that Gardner and his staff have been intentional about curating. Patrons have followed.
When asked how this year's nomination compares to last year's, Gardner said "it's sweeter."
"After the year we had (last year), we all just said, 'This is a once-in-a-lifetime experience, we've loved it. Now, let's get back to work,'" Gardner told Free Times. "Now, to be listed among that group is just so rewarding and it just puts a spotlight on the mission of this establishment. Wine is the backbone of what we do."
Lula Drake will go up against 19 other semifinalists in the category from cities like Chicago and Boston.
This is a developing story and will be updated.
